The University of Bologna, founded in 1088, proudly sits as the oldest university in the Western world. What began as a university where students were first taught in scholars’ homes gradually evolved into what we now know as a modern university setting. I met up with Bologna guide Catia Aliberti who gave me a tour of the university, but you can choose to do a free self-guided tour or sign up for a group tour of the University’s many museums. We began in the anatomical theater and I learned how students were taught basic anatomy by dissecting cadavers to discover and map out the human body. There is also a breathtaking library with more than 800,000 books from the 10th to 20th centuries, including original works and handwritten manuscripts from such historical scholars as Copernicus and Galileo.

The streets of Bologna are framed by porticoes all across the city. In 2021, 12 sections of the 38 miles of porticoes were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for their outstanding value as a unique architectural and urban phenomenon. These porticoes are more than a passageway; they serve as a place to stop and meet a friend, or as shelter from rain and winter weather.

One of the designated UNESCO sections of porticoes is the Portico di San Luca. This portico is the longest in the world at close to 2.5 miles and is an uphill trek to the Sanctuary of Madonna of San Luca, one of the most iconic places in all of Bologna. Built with 666 arches, it symbolizes moving away from the Devil below to heaven above. The procession through the portico can be quite a physical journey, so there is also a train you can take. But no matter how you get to the top, it is magnificent, with picturesque views of the rolling hills and landscapes of Bologna.

A stroll through Bologna’s Quadrilatero, or central market, provides an experience for the senses – vibrant colors and delicious smells give you a clue as to what makes the cuisine in Bologna so special. A stop in Salumeria Simoni provides a unique look into just how seriously the people of Bologna take their craft. The Scapin family has a city certification for their dedication to upholding Bologna’s highest standards for making mortadella by using the traditional recipe, ingredients, and methods that have been passed down for generations. Mortadella quickly became a staple across Bologna as a relatively inexpensive and delicious way to feed the farmers and working class.

Continuing through the Quadrilatero, you will come across another iconic business – Antica Aguzzeria Del Cavallo. Established in 1783 to sharpen tools, knives, and even swords, it is still a family owned business that provides kitchen cutlery and pasta making tools used in kitchens across Bologna. Guilia Testoni spoke with us about the history and importance of her family’s business and introduced me to the different types of tools used to make different types of pasta, like tagliatelle and tortellini.

Cesarine is a network of home cooks throughout Italy that introduce people to local cuisine through immersive cooking classes in their own homes. Founded in Bologna, their goal is to provide genuine experiences and pass along local tradition and culture through food. I met up with Cesarine Ester Inzani, who took me on a tour of the Quadrilatero as we gathered ingredients for our cooking class that evening.  We purchased the ingredients after taste testing a few, and then went to Ester’s home for my cooking lesson. We prepared three different types of pasta and learned the first rule of eating pasta in Italy – never cut the pasta before you take a bite!

In addition to its traditional culinary scene, Bologna is world renown for manufacturing luxury goods, including high end automobiles like Ducati and Lamborghini, as well as fashion and leather goods. I spoke with Margherita Libouri who, along with her twin sister Caterina, own Double Trouble Bologna, a handmade, luxury goods brand focused on sustainability. By sourcing leather remnants from local Italian tanneries and fabric offcuts from Africa, they create beautiful, one-of-a-kind leather goods and fashion, with a focus on craftsmanship, longevity, and rejecting fast fashion.